Albania has two UNESCO World Heritage towns and they could not be more different. Berat is whitewashed, riverside, fairytale; Gjirokastër is grey-stone, dramatic, mountainous. Both have been inhabited for over two thousand years and both preserve some of the best-surviving Ottoman urban architecture in the Balkans. They are essential stops on any Albania road trip.
The good news for road trippers: both are easy to reach by rental car (about 2 hours and 4 hours from Tirana respectively), and both can be visited together as part of a southern Albania loop. If you haven’t booked yet, our Tirana Airport rental car page has compact cars from €25/day.
Berat — the city of a thousand windows
Berat sits in the Osumi river valley, two hours south of Tirana. The historic core is divided into three parts: Mangalem (the Muslim quarter on the south bank), Gorica (the Christian quarter on the north bank), and Kalaja (the inhabited castle on the hill above Mangalem). The town’s nickname comes from the rows of identical white houses with large windows stacked up the hillsides — they look like they’re watching you.
Berat Castle (Kalaja)
Unique among European castles, Berat’s 13th-century fortress is still inhabited. Hundreds of locals live inside the walls in restored Ottoman houses. Walking up is a short, steep climb on cobblestones; you can drive up if you have a small car (parking inside the castle is €1). Inside you’ll find:
- Onufri Iconographic Museum — a 16th-century Orthodox church holding the work of Albania’s greatest icon painter.
- Castle viewpoints over the valley, especially stunning at sunset.
- Traditional restaurants serving Berat-style baked vegetable casseroles in clay pots.
Mangalem and Gorica
Wander down through Mangalem’s steep alleys, cross the 18th-century stone Gorica Bridge over the Osumi, and explore the Christian quarter on the other side. Both quarters feel like museum villages, but they’re very much alive — kids playing football in tiny squares, grandmothers in scarves shooing cats off doorsteps.
Where to eat in Berat
- Onufri Restaurant — inside the castle, classic Albanian cuisine with castle views.
- Mangalemi Hotel restaurant — beautiful traditional dining room, great tavë kosi.
- Antipatrea — the local favourite for fresh fish and homemade raki.
Where to stay in Berat
Stay in the castle or in Mangalem. Both have small guesthouses in restored Ottoman houses for €40–€80 per night. Our pick is Hotel Mangalemi, run by the same family for three generations. For the more atmospheric option, Hotel Klea inside the castle walls.
Driving and parking in Berat
Don’t drive into Mangalem — the alleys are too narrow for most cars. Park at one of the free riverside lots near the modern town centre and walk in. If you’re staying inside the castle, check with your guesthouse about parking — most have arrangements with locals.
Gjirokastër — the stone city
Four hours south of Tirana (and conveniently between Berat and Saranda), Gjirokastër is built on a steep ridge above the Drino valley. Where Berat is white, Gjirokastër is grey — every roof, wall, and street is paved in slate. Birthplace of the writer Ismail Kadare and dictator Enver Hoxha, the town has a heavy literary atmosphere and some of the most spectacular Ottoman houses you’ll ever enter.
Gjirokastër Castle
Massive, dramatic, and one of the largest in the Balkans. The fortress dates to the 12th century but most of what you see is 19th-century rebuild. Inside you’ll find a corridor of artillery, a captured American spy plane (a U.S. Lockheed T-33 forced down in 1957), a national arms museum, and unbeatable views over the valley. Allow 2 hours.
The Old Bazaar (Pazari i Vjetër)
Wander the cobblestone old bazaar streets below the castle for traditional Gjirokastër crafts: woven rugs, copper coffee pots, woodcarvings. The quality is excellent and the prices are still gentle. Stop for coffee in a 200-year-old café.
The Skenduli House and Zekate House
Two of the great surviving Ottoman houses, both still owned by the original families. Each has multiple stories of stunning carved wood ceilings, painted murals, and traditional reception rooms. Entry is €3 each and the family-member tour is the highlight of many visitors’ trip.
The Cold War Tunnel
Beneath the old town, a vast secret bunker built for the regional party leadership during the Cold War — opened to visitors in 2014. Guided tours every 30 minutes, €5. Eerie and fascinating.
Where to eat in Gjirokastër
- Taverna Tradicionale — homemade pasta, qifqi (the local rice-and-mint balls), and roast lamb.
- Restorant Kujtimi — view from the terrace, traditional Gjirokastër menu.
- Bar Restaurant Odaja — a beautifully restored Ottoman house turned restaurant.
Where to stay in Gjirokastër
Stay in the old town to get the full atmosphere. Guesthouses in restored Ottoman houses cost €35–€70 per night. We always recommend Stone City Hostel for backpackers and Hotel Çajupi for mid-range comfort.
Driving and parking in Gjirokastër
The old town is a steep cobblestone maze. Drive up only if you’re sure of the route to your guesthouse. The simple option: park at the large free lot just below the castle and walk down into the bazaar. Don’t attempt the very steep alleys with a low-clearance rental.
How to combine Berat and Gjirokastër
The classic southern Albania loop from Tirana:
- Day 1: Tirana → Berat (2 h drive). Castle and old town in the afternoon, sleep in Mangalem.
- Day 2: Berat → Gjirokastër (3 h drive via the Tepelena valley). Arrive afternoon, sleep in the old town.
- Day 3: Gjirokastër castle, bazaar and Skenduli house in the morning, then drive 1 h to Saranda for the Riviera.
For the full week-long version with the Riviera and Tirana, see our 7-day Albania road trip itinerary.
Practical tips for both towns
- Footwear: bring proper walking shoes — both old towns are entirely cobblestone and steep.
- Heat: the cobblestones reflect heat in July/August. Visit in May–June or September–October for best comfort.
- Cash: small cafés and museums prefer cash. Carry €30–€50 in lek per person per day.
- Local guides: a 2-hour walking tour with a licensed local guide costs around €15–€20 and adds enormously to the experience. Both towns have guides at the castle entrances.
Final thoughts
Skipping these two towns would be like visiting Italy without Florence. They are the soul of Albanian heritage. Drive there. Stay overnight in both. Eat the local dishes. Talk to the families who live in the old houses. You’ll come away with the rare feeling of having seen something that hasn’t yet been packaged for tourism — and one of the great cultural experiences of southeast Europe.
For more context on the country before you arrive, see our guide to Albanian culture, customs and etiquette.